How fashion became a symbol of rebellion — fashion and hairstyles in the Soviet Union
In the Soviet Union, fashion trends generally echoed the West by a few years. The state resisted what it deemed capitalist influence on it’s popular culture and daily life. Contextually, the Soviets lacked a large amount of consumer goods production and it was curiously presented in their fashion. It’s no secret that the vanguard state of Russia was an oppressive and tyrannical force. One that subject its own citizens to gulags, mass killings and constant surveillance. Somehow, in such an oppressive environment one innate human trait still prevailed; The desire to be attractive.
Western fashion was hard to come by for a good portion of the Soviet Union’s lifespan. Foreigners could pull a huge profit selling western clothing to many different businesses such as second-hand stores and specialty clothing outlets. Supply and demand, as the west would have it.
This desire is one to stand out, to be recognized as an individual, either with a unique style or as part of a broader trend. It’s odd how something so minor in the west was considered such a great rebellion in the bloc. When the west was a sea of mullets, acid washed jeans, fancy patterns and colors and dyes; Russia consisted of short hair, under-satured fabrics and cultural lag. As Soviet influence lessened, dwindling into the 80s, western popular culture leaked in more than ever and it reflected in their fashion catalogues and in the newfound enterprise of clothing companies. These same companies looked to market to rebellious teenagers, a market that was broad and had a decent amount of purchasing power at the time.
As the union strayed from Communism, it did so in an effort to keep the regime alive, to consolidate power and maintain control in an attempt to see the cold war through. China has begun doing similar things in the modern day. Capitalism in controlled circumstances benefitted those communist regimes and continues to do so. Enterprising westerners and bloc members alike saw the great opportunity and took advantage of it. Producing catalogues like this one.
Throughout history, long hair has been a representation of many things: Freedom, luxury, royalty. The Cavaliers, or royalists in the English civil war wore their hair long in opposition to the roundheads. Their support of absolute monarchy was telegraphed by the message that their hairstyle sent. However, in the Soviet Union, long hair was not a symbol of loyalty but one of disloyalty to the state. It was strictly forbidden to have long hair, there was no rhyme or reason but such a belief prevailed. Rock Stars had long hair, symbols of everything the Soviet regime opposed. Opulence, fame and immorality.
Authority figures and concerned parents constantly worried about what could be arbitrarily considered ‘long’ hair, and thus subjective measures were put in place. On the contrary, a short haircut was out of style and shameful to the youth, a sign of rebellion became long hair. Brave students would attend school with long hair for durations of days, at the berating of parents, teachers, principals and police.
An anecdote that I managed to find even stated such, from Dmitry Floridsky on Quora, a former Soviet citizen: “In 1971 after being a straight A (“5” in soviet system) student for the whole year I was not allowed to take high school exit exams until I cut my hair above my ears.” It was social suicide once you became an adult. Unless you populated the schools or the military. Soldiers known as ‘dedy’ that were soon to be discharged would wear their hair out long proudly. Whereas, newly recruited soldiers and POWs would wear their hair short, something that was considered shameful, a complete flip from regular civilian society; Almost as if the military represented a deep seated resentment of the vanguard state that represented Russia. Discharging soldiers wore their hair long symbolically, they were free from service, free from obligation.
In the 1950’s, Russians began to replicate the Western styles to the best of their ability with what they had at home. Younger folks who could get a hold of American inspired clothing — did. They took to the streets, adorned in suits, fitted pants and shirts and flashy ties, donned in American flag socks even. There was no attempt here to protest against the oppressive soviet regime, but a rebellion of escapism. The attempt to escape from the monotony of daily life in an autocratic society.
This trend that endures can be explained through the lens of Adidas. Being a German company, it should be foreign to the Russians. This fascination with foreign fashion propagates in any culture, but never to such degree as Adidas, a company so prolific in Russia it has become a symbol of their culture. It turns out after all that soviet fashion is hardly as draconian as it would first appear to be, vibrant communities of counter-cultures sporting all sorts of clothing that went against the better wishes of the communist party of Russia. This history of rebellion through clothing was born in such an oppressive and suffocating environment and has endured until today, having become a core pillar of Russian heritage. Even now, as Russians stand up and decide for the second time in the last century that enough is enough, to topple a regime; They still sport that so sought after - foreign fashion.
